Today I visited Tsitsernakaberd. For the uninformed, "tsitsernakaberd" is Armenian for "Fortress of small swallows." It is the national memorial to the Armenian genocide, located close to my home in Yerevan. It is moving and elegant, bringing tears to the eyes of my Armenian-American classmates. There is a tall spike, an eternal flame, and a small museum dedicated to photographs, print, and statistical evidence of the genocide that took place in Eastern Turkey from 1915-1918. In Turkey, it is known as the "Armenian Relocation" or "Deportation of the Armenians," which they claim to be the mass deportation of the Armenian people to the Syrian desert as a result of skirmishes between the Armenian and Turkish peoples- skirmishes that resulted in deaths on both sides, which is why they insist on calling it a war, not a genocide. The politics are complicated, regardless of what the Turkish government or Armenian Diaspora (the politicultural group of people of Armenian descent living all over the world) might wish one to believe.
But this is background information.
Today was difficult. It is never easy to stand witness, even nearly a century later, to atrocities. It is even more difficult because I have come to know, and adore, the descendents of the perpetrators. Now, nobody hates the Germans for the Holocaust. But in Germany, it is a crime to deny the genocide- in Turkey, it is a crime not to (it is under the law criminalizing "insulting Turkishness"). It's difficult to know that so many people are so angry at a group of people that I've come to love. It's difficult because all the people I knew had no part in the genocide, and were taught from an early age that it did not happen. How can anyone fault them for believing what every teacher, every mentor, everyone they know has told them that it is a cruel lie designed to dishonor their grandparents and great grandparents? At the same time, I look at the memorial and want to shake people, my own government and every other one that has not recognized the genocide for what it was- a horrible attempt to destroy an ancient group of people. Politics are never clear or staightforward, and solutions are never easy.
I've spoken with the Armenian foreign policy advisor, the deputy Minister of Justice, the US Ambassador, and several other high-ranking political persons here in Armenia. No one has any more answers than I do.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Culture Shock Strikes Back
Annum's Katie'e, yes Amerikatsi em, usough em Hayastanum... ama Türkiye çok ozledim.
Probably one of the more rare language combinations... Armenkish? Turkenian? It's the easiest example of my current bizarre strain of culture shock. Although suddenly living with and being constantly surrounded by 13 other American students who are all continually speaking in English and making pop culture references and talking in 4 syllable words about Ameican politics and foreign policy is a whole separate (and completely exhausting) culture shock issue. But as for Armenia and Turkey, they are far more similar than they would ever admit, but there are enough differences to keep my on my toes. A breakdown:
Language:Armenian and Turkish, despite being sandwiched together for over a millenia, have almost nothing in common. I've found two words that are similar: "nargile" meaning hookah, and "peynir" meaning cheese. They also both have the "click" that means no, but the Armenian click is more subtle and less definite. But the grammatical structure, pronunciation, and vocalizations are completely different- Armenians even have their own alphabet (unbelievably frustrating). More interestingly, in the same way the Turkey has many people who speak a bit of English, simply because they studied at some point in school, Armenia is filled with people who know a smattering of Russian- logical, since it is a state only 17 years free of the Soviet yoke.
Religion: Obviously, Turkey is Muslim and Armenia is Christian. But as far as my experiences go, Armenians seem to take religion far more seriously than most Turks I met- granted, I spent most of my time in Ankara and Istanbul, major modern cities, rather than the more conservative, religious villages in the southeast. But on the same token, I'm currently in Yerevan- the capital, albeit tiny, city and arguably most progressive part of Armenia. I got to visit Khor Virab, a 1600+ year old church on the Turkish-Armenian border, with a beautiful view of Mt Ararat (think Noah). I also attended Sunday morning service at an Armenian Apostolic Church, which was quite an experience. Very serious, very decorous, very intense. Supposedly somewhat similar to Russian or Greek Orthodox, there was a lot of chanting and I've never crossed myself more often in a 2 hour span in my life.
Personal Space: It's been endlessly entertaining to me to watch the other Americans (particularly boys) here get squeamish about personal space- and not even invasions of their own, just other people touching or kissing each other casually. For me, Armenia has been strange because they are FAR more reserved than Turks. They greet each other with a kiss on one cheek, rather than two, and often it's an air kiss. They don't generally hold arms, although women here interlock fingers more often. Armenians don't smile as much, or laugh- especially in public, they are extremely reserved and formal. Turks also stare much more- I've only noticed people staring once or twice here, like on public transit, because I'm completely used to it. My classmates complain that they feel like they are constantly being stared at... I think the main difference lies in that when you catch an Armenian staring at you, they look away, and when they talk about you, they hide their mouths behind their hands. Turks as a rule are much more blatant, and definitely have no problems maintaining eye contact.
Appearance: Very similar. Like the staring thing, I no longer notice unibrows. Seriously, not at all. They're pretty common, which amuses my classmates, but I didn't even realize what they were referring to when we first arrived and they commented on the hairiness and such of people here. If I could average the country out, I'd say Armenians are a bit lighter than Turks, but I've met blond Turks and extremely dark Armenians, so there's really no rule here. Turks are more concerned with fashion and hairstyles, and take more fashion risks, whereas Armenian men wear more hats, women wear higher heels, and clothes are FAR more revealing- the amount of skin I saw during church was absolutely distracting. (What's that? Oh yes, I did just spend six months in a {mostly} conservative Muslim country)
History: Well obviously both groups have been in the area a while, and have had very different experiences. But what I've found more fascinating is that both nationalities have an obsession with their history and ethnicity. Turks are TURKISH, and they obsess about Ataturk. Armenians are ARMENIAN, and obsess over their historic lands. Among other things. But it's a bit like seeing a familial trait- similar to how my father and his brothers enjoying delving into geneaology, both Turks and Armenians have an eye focused intently on the past.
Food: Doner. Lahmacun. Ayran. Even Beypazari sucuk. Unbelievably delicious produce, including cucumbers, tomatoes, apricots and sour cherries. Turkish food is still my favorite (no iskender, kokorec, manti or midye here), but it's really not too far off. The amount of ham is a bit weird, and my stomach definitely reacted strangely to it at first. Also, Ankara was filled with American fast food places- McDonalds, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, Dominoes, Arby's, Starbucks. I haven't seen a single familiar food name since I've been here. My guess would be Armenia's Soviet past- for all I know, half the restaurants with Russian signs are well known chains in Moscow. (Reallllly starting to wish I had taken Russian lessons from my ex-roommate in Ankara.)
Like I said, I miss Turkey. A lot. I'm trying not to hang out too much in my Turkish bubble (populated by me, my Turkish friends and students' facebooks, & my collection of Turkish music), but it's tempting- especially since the alternative is a herd of Americans, and nobody likes that. My classmates are just starting to understand my adoration of this part of the world, although I'm 100% aware that if I tell one more story that starts with "Well this one time in Turkey..." they will duct tape me into a closet and leave me there for the next 3 weeks. It's strange, sort of knowing what to expect and sort of not. The insane driving, irregular power and water, and the idea of communicating complicated thoughts without speaking a common language is all very familiar to me... but cultural details are very different.
I've visited an art museum, a historic cultural landmark, attended a week of classes, and picked up bits of the language... yet I've only met one Armenian who was not introduced to me as a tour guide or teacher, fluent in English language and customs. One. Such is the American bubble.
Probably one of the more rare language combinations... Armenkish? Turkenian? It's the easiest example of my current bizarre strain of culture shock. Although suddenly living with and being constantly surrounded by 13 other American students who are all continually speaking in English and making pop culture references and talking in 4 syllable words about Ameican politics and foreign policy is a whole separate (and completely exhausting) culture shock issue. But as for Armenia and Turkey, they are far more similar than they would ever admit, but there are enough differences to keep my on my toes. A breakdown:
Language:Armenian and Turkish, despite being sandwiched together for over a millenia, have almost nothing in common. I've found two words that are similar: "nargile" meaning hookah, and "peynir" meaning cheese. They also both have the "click" that means no, but the Armenian click is more subtle and less definite. But the grammatical structure, pronunciation, and vocalizations are completely different- Armenians even have their own alphabet (unbelievably frustrating). More interestingly, in the same way the Turkey has many people who speak a bit of English, simply because they studied at some point in school, Armenia is filled with people who know a smattering of Russian- logical, since it is a state only 17 years free of the Soviet yoke.
Religion: Obviously, Turkey is Muslim and Armenia is Christian. But as far as my experiences go, Armenians seem to take religion far more seriously than most Turks I met- granted, I spent most of my time in Ankara and Istanbul, major modern cities, rather than the more conservative, religious villages in the southeast. But on the same token, I'm currently in Yerevan- the capital, albeit tiny, city and arguably most progressive part of Armenia. I got to visit Khor Virab, a 1600+ year old church on the Turkish-Armenian border, with a beautiful view of Mt Ararat (think Noah). I also attended Sunday morning service at an Armenian Apostolic Church, which was quite an experience. Very serious, very decorous, very intense. Supposedly somewhat similar to Russian or Greek Orthodox, there was a lot of chanting and I've never crossed myself more often in a 2 hour span in my life.
Personal Space: It's been endlessly entertaining to me to watch the other Americans (particularly boys) here get squeamish about personal space- and not even invasions of their own, just other people touching or kissing each other casually. For me, Armenia has been strange because they are FAR more reserved than Turks. They greet each other with a kiss on one cheek, rather than two, and often it's an air kiss. They don't generally hold arms, although women here interlock fingers more often. Armenians don't smile as much, or laugh- especially in public, they are extremely reserved and formal. Turks also stare much more- I've only noticed people staring once or twice here, like on public transit, because I'm completely used to it. My classmates complain that they feel like they are constantly being stared at... I think the main difference lies in that when you catch an Armenian staring at you, they look away, and when they talk about you, they hide their mouths behind their hands. Turks as a rule are much more blatant, and definitely have no problems maintaining eye contact.
Appearance: Very similar. Like the staring thing, I no longer notice unibrows. Seriously, not at all. They're pretty common, which amuses my classmates, but I didn't even realize what they were referring to when we first arrived and they commented on the hairiness and such of people here. If I could average the country out, I'd say Armenians are a bit lighter than Turks, but I've met blond Turks and extremely dark Armenians, so there's really no rule here. Turks are more concerned with fashion and hairstyles, and take more fashion risks, whereas Armenian men wear more hats, women wear higher heels, and clothes are FAR more revealing- the amount of skin I saw during church was absolutely distracting. (What's that? Oh yes, I did just spend six months in a {mostly} conservative Muslim country)
History: Well obviously both groups have been in the area a while, and have had very different experiences. But what I've found more fascinating is that both nationalities have an obsession with their history and ethnicity. Turks are TURKISH, and they obsess about Ataturk. Armenians are ARMENIAN, and obsess over their historic lands. Among other things. But it's a bit like seeing a familial trait- similar to how my father and his brothers enjoying delving into geneaology, both Turks and Armenians have an eye focused intently on the past.
Food: Doner. Lahmacun. Ayran. Even Beypazari sucuk. Unbelievably delicious produce, including cucumbers, tomatoes, apricots and sour cherries. Turkish food is still my favorite (no iskender, kokorec, manti or midye here), but it's really not too far off. The amount of ham is a bit weird, and my stomach definitely reacted strangely to it at first. Also, Ankara was filled with American fast food places- McDonalds, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, Dominoes, Arby's, Starbucks. I haven't seen a single familiar food name since I've been here. My guess would be Armenia's Soviet past- for all I know, half the restaurants with Russian signs are well known chains in Moscow. (Reallllly starting to wish I had taken Russian lessons from my ex-roommate in Ankara.)
Like I said, I miss Turkey. A lot. I'm trying not to hang out too much in my Turkish bubble (populated by me, my Turkish friends and students' facebooks, & my collection of Turkish music), but it's tempting- especially since the alternative is a herd of Americans, and nobody likes that. My classmates are just starting to understand my adoration of this part of the world, although I'm 100% aware that if I tell one more story that starts with "Well this one time in Turkey..." they will duct tape me into a closet and leave me there for the next 3 weeks. It's strange, sort of knowing what to expect and sort of not. The insane driving, irregular power and water, and the idea of communicating complicated thoughts without speaking a common language is all very familiar to me... but cultural details are very different.
I've visited an art museum, a historic cultural landmark, attended a week of classes, and picked up bits of the language... yet I've only met one Armenian who was not introduced to me as a tour guide or teacher, fluent in English language and customs. One. Such is the American bubble.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Countdown
So it's down to the final 10 hours... It's so difficult to say goodbye. Technically I've finished saying goodbye to everyone I know- most of whom are in Ankara. But I'll miss Turkiye like an old friend. One that I didn't like much at first, didn't trust, didn't understand... but given a lot of time and patience, we're now thick as thieves (wait, did I just describe Turkiye or Alex Budge? =P ) I love the culture here, the eccentricities and customs that once seemed so foreign. Midye and kokorec at 3 in the morning, misir (corn on the cob) on every street corner, gypsies and tissue kids and shoe-shiners. I'll even miss TOBB, and some of the awesome people I've been lucky enough to get to know. I've learned a lot about the world, about myself, and about other people.
I've learned that more often than not, words are irrelevant to communication.
I've learned some people will respect you for who you are, and some people won't, and often you have no choice in the matter.
I've learned I can't control other people, I can't always change my situation, but whether I have fun is completely my decision.
I've learned the worst experiences can make the best stories.
I've learned a whole lot more, but my internet is running out. I promise to add on to this when I get a chance!
I've learned that more often than not, words are irrelevant to communication.
I've learned some people will respect you for who you are, and some people won't, and often you have no choice in the matter.
I've learned I can't control other people, I can't always change my situation, but whether I have fun is completely my decision.
I've learned the worst experiences can make the best stories.
I've learned a whole lot more, but my internet is running out. I promise to add on to this when I get a chance!
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